Friday, September 23, 2011

France - You are Everything

I have spent many days in the Lacanau car park idling under the scorching sun waiting for heats. The gutters always reek of urine and the waves are usually tiny.
But the following week everything changes. We are back in Hossegor.
God I love this place.
Waves, women and night life.
All the boys are in town.
They paddle out at the same time. The period is short, the wind is onshore and there are nuggets to be had.

Surfers in order of appearance:

Billy Stairmand
Sebastian Zeitz
Mitch Coleborn
Davey Cathels
Sam Wrench
Brandon Gibbens
Ryan Callinan
Jack Freestone
Luke Cheadle
Reubyn Ash
Dion Atkinson
Rudy Palmboom

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